Using The Correct Pad For The Job Is The Only Way To Achieve The Best And Most Consistent Results... 

You can't get the best from your cars paintwork without polishing and you can't polish without a pad - that's not some kind of weird car detailing folklore, it's just a fact. When it comes to detailing products and accessories, you need the best to do the job right!

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But, the real question is; how do you choose the correct pad to get the best results for various levels of correction and refinement, while avoiding any expensive mistakes along the way? Well, that's where we come in, so here's everything you need to know about every type of polishing pad…

What Is A Polishing Pad?

For the most part the term refers to Machine Polishing Pads - the most common being foam pads used for paint correction and refinement - but it can of course also include foam and microfibre pads, and applicators used for hand polishing, glazing and spot defect removal. Some pads - like our Revitalise Spot Pads can even be used for both hand or machine polishing.

For the most part here though, we'll be looking at finding the correct machine polishing pads for the job, but it's always worth remembering that hand polishing pads and applicators (which are usually constructed from the same materials), work in exactly the same way, just at a slower pace.

On the face of it there are many, many different types of polishing pad, but these can be quickly broken down into categories according to their size and materials used. In detailing circles at least there are three types of pad available - foam, microfibre and wool. The latter two are aggressive and used chiefly for heavy cutting and spot defect removal, while foam pads are available as different types to tackle everything from cutting to refining and finishing.

In terms of size and fit, the vast majority of modern pads that you'll come across use a hook and loop design to enable them to stick to the backing plate on the machine, these are most commonly found in 5-inch, 3-inch and 1-inch sizes to cater for the most common machine polisher sizes, but this is by no means all the sizes available. There are of course also foam pads that can simply screw directly to a machine polisher, but these tend to be used on rotary machines by refinishers in body shops to make freshly sprayed panels flat, relatively free of orange peel and "passable' after a repair. For the most part these are more of a "mopping' tool, than the sort of paint refinement essential we look for in the detailing world.

How Do Polishing Pads Work?

The first thing to remember is that, to an extent, polishing pads can be treated as a kind of abrasive, a bit like sandpaper, only far finer. We use them with various abrasive products like a polish or a compound of course, and they're designed to hold these products against surfaces to break them down and fully work them through, correcting or refining the surface at the same time. But, what's just as important as the product used on the pad is the performance of the actual pads themselves. This makes up a vital part of the detailer's 'combo' or the combination of product and pad and what effect it has on the surface. Using a different pad with the same polishing product is also a way of slightly varying the results to account for different types of paint and varying levels of defect.

Polishing pads simply work through friction, the level of which directly corresponds to how much of the surface of your paintwork a pad is able to take away during any cutting or refining process. You can find a full rundown on the science of machine polishing, including how surfaces are corrected on a microscopic level - in our Basic Guide To Machine Polishing.

Wool & Microfibre Polishing Pads

Microfibre and Wool Pads are technically non-abrasive, but they are extremely aggressive when used with a relevant compound or polish, they will always give the abrasive product you're using far more bite. This is due to the natural or synthetic fibres having a much-increased surface area over foam, which in turn increases physical contact with the surface and aids friction. In simple terms this increase in heat helps to cut away more of the clearcoat/paint, chopping its way through surface layers in a much faster timeframe.

For the most part wool pads are the most aggressive and designed primeraly for use on rotary polishers. They will cut through the heaviest defects, easily, but will leave behind a surface that requires more refinement due to the abrasions and holograms that the cutting pad imparts along the way.

Microfibre pads are only slightly less aggressive, and will cut through the heavier defects, leaving behind tiny micro scratches and a cloudy surface that will need to be further refined to flawless. But critically, microfibre pads are available for use with dual action polishers, so to some extent they can be seen as a slightly safer option.

Although wool and microfibre spot pads are commonly used by detailers, this is generally only when a foam pad is not up to the task of cutting through particularly heavy defect on an in-depth multi-stage correction. Generally speaking, unless the paint shows significant damage or the vehicle has fresh paint which hasn't been effectively flatted and polished, foam pads are more commonly used for cutting medium to light defects. For finishing, glazing and polishing on single-stage enhancements, softer foam pads are always used.

Foam Polishing Pads

For obvious reasons, foam pads are the most popular in detailing circles, simply because they are available with such a varied level of cut and able to take care of all the most crucial stages of final paint refinement.

The aggressiveness of a foam pads will be dictated by their construction, which is always tailored the particular part of the correction process they are designed to carry out. This will vary from extreme cutting and flatting, most likely in a bodyshop, to the detailer's favourites of cutting, polishing and refining paintwork to a flawless finish. This is achieved through the density and the structure of the foam used in their manufacture, how it contacts the surface and the aptitude to build and retain heat within the foam itself.

Harder, denser foam is used for cutting simply because it brings more abrasion, more surface contact, and with it more heat. Lighter, less dense foam pads will be more suited to paint refinement and finishing. Although of course, it's always important to keep in mind that all these processes are technically still cutting, just on a finer and proportionally less aggressive level as you move on to refinement and finishing.

Just think of this type of multi-stage polishing (with less aggressive pads and products as you work down from stage to stage) as a process where you correct heavy defects first, and then correct the slighter and slighter defects left behind by the previous stage. The more aggressive the pad, the heaver the defect it can cut out, but the larger the defects it will leave behind to correct on the next stage, until eventually the defects are refined to a level that makes them invisible to the eye.

What's The Difference Between Open And Closed Cell Foam?

It's a commonly asked question, and it refers to the makeup of the foam itself. Foam is made up of thousands of microscopic cells packed together in a non-uniform mass. When it's manufactured, each of these individual cells have a kind of skeletal structure and a membrane or skin, which covers the entire outer surface to make up the outer cell wall. All these cells are stuck together, and this gives the body of foam. Imagine this as like a collection of steel framed buildings all clumped together. What's important here is that when the membrane remains intact, the foam is known as closed cell, and when the cell membranes are taken away through reticulation (a secondary manufacturing process which quite literally explodes the cells) to leave only the structure behind, this is known as reticulated or open cell foam.

So, on a microscopic level, closed cell foam is a bit like frogspawn in appearance, while open cell foam has more of a 3D honeycomb structure, this as you can imagine gives different characteristics when it comes to use as the contact surface in machine polishing pads.

Because of the tight knit structure and the fact that the cells are essentially sealed off, closed cell foam pads are extremely dense. And, although there not completely impermeable to air and liquids between the cells, they don't lend themselves particularly well to soaking in products. Here the compounds (along with any spent product and removed clearcoat/paint) will remain on the top of the surface and will tend to migrate to the middle of the pad as it spins. Airflow is also extremely restricted through closed cell foam, and for this reason it builds up heat extremely quickly and retains it over a relatively long period. This is why closed cell pads are generally reserved for the first stage of heavy cutting and defect removal using rotary polishers. You'll find that many closed cell pads are simply referred to as "cutting pads'. These also tend to be more difficult to clean effectively.

Conversely, open cell foam - like that which you'll find in our Machine Polishing Pads and Pro Pucks - tends to be safer during any correction process due to increased heat dispersal, especially when used in conjunction with a dual action polisher. The structure here is also porous meaning it actively soaks in the polishing product and is able to collect and lock away spent compound and removed paint particles deep down under the surface. Because of the variety of foam densities that can manufactured, open cell pads are also available in a wider range of firmness which means they can be manufactured to be relatively soft, making them ideal for the finest refinement, finishing down and the application of glazes. It doesn't mean a high-density open cell foam pad won't achieve a good, heavy cut, though. In fact, a good quality open cell foam item will offer a similar level of cut to any equivalent closed cell pad.

Density

Regardless of an open or closed cell construction, density refers to the stiffness of the foam used. Stiffer foam is by nature more aggressive on painted surfaces, the reason why denser pads are chiefly suited to cutting, and softer pads can be used for refinement and finishing.

What's less commonly known is that the density of foam actually changes as you work. As a pad becomes saturated with polishing products, and when it heats up during use, the density of the foam is be reduced. In practical terms at least, this means that cutting performance will also diminish, and it's the reason why a new, dry pad will cut more readily than a pad that has been used for some time over multiple panels. This is just one of the reasons why we regularly clean out pads between polishing sets, to attempt to keep the effectiveness of the cut.

The density change when in use is something that should be taken into consideration when specifying how many pads to use over an entire vehicle. While we understand that's it's not always practical, the most efficient cut will always come from using one pad for each area or panel. Basically speaking, the more pads you use during your detail, the faster you'll complete the job.

How Do I Keep My Pads Clean?

When in use regular pad cleaning is essential to retain performance, stop clogging and prevent your pad becoming completely saturated with spent product. But, this is a simple case of holding a Pad Cleaning Brush to the surface (yes, do it away from the vehicle) and running the machine to scrub out what are essentially contaminants.

When it comes to cleaning your pads after a detail however - to ensure that they're ready for reuse the next time around - being extremely thorough is vital for getting the best from every job and making your pads last longer through multiple details. "Wet cleaning' your pads between details is just as easy and is best carried out using a stiff Pad Cleaning Brush and some Verso All Purpose Cleaner. You can see the full process in our article: How To Keep Your Pads in Tip Top Condition After Every Job.

Microfibre machine polishing pads can be cleaned and reconditioned in exactly the same way as your Microfibre cloths, using Micro Wash Microfibre Detergent. You can find out how here in our article: Getting the Right Microfibre Towel for the Job.

FAQ

Why Buff and Shine pads?

Our pads are USA-made with the highest quality materials available and are designed and improved based on feedback for end users like you!  With Buff and Shine products, you can rely on three important characteristics:  consistency, durability, and functionality.  Further, we have the best customer service and reviews in the industry.  Read more at our About page.

How many pads do I need?

There are many variables that go into the number of pads to be used, including the extent of the project, the condition of the surface, and the expectations of the customer.  For automotive polishing, it is better to have too many pads than not enough.  “Forcing” a pad to finish a job even though the pad is worn out will lead to excess swirls and extra work to remove technical damage from the worn-out pad.  As a general recommendation, if you are providing paint perfection service on a sedan, have two pads per step available.  That is, two compounding pads, two polishing pads, and two finishing pads.

How often do I clean pads during use?

When compounding or polishing on a vehicle, clean the pad at least once per panel.  On larger panels—like hoods—you may need to clean the pad several times while working on that area.  Any time the pad gums up with chemical, it starts spitting chemical, or it takes too long to get results in the polishing area, clean the pad and re-apply fresh chemical.  When applying final protection (wax or sealant), it is not really necessary to clean pads during application.

How long do pads last?

It is difficult to offer a simple answer to this question because there are so many variables involved—what is the pad used for?  How many hours a day is it used?  How aggressive is the technician?  What type of polishing machine is being used?  In general, pad endurance will be enhanced with the proper care suggested in other FAQ answers.  Wax and sealant application pads can last for hundreds of applications.  Fine polishing pads can also last for many applications because they are being used gently.  A common mistake it to try to stretch the life of a polishing pad; a worn-out polishing pad can actually imitate a cutting pad because the face is so pock-marked with missing material.  Over-using a polishing pad can damage vehicle paint with swirls and other micro-scratches, causing you to do more work than you need.  Remember that if you are charging the correct amount of money for the fine art of paint perfecting, the cost of using fresh pads on each vehicle should be negligible.  Time is money, and if you save time by using fresh pads, you are easily making up for the cost of having lots of pads available.

Which pad do I start with?

A common saying in the automotive paint perfecting circle is, “Use the least aggressive method that gets the job done in a reasonable amount of time.”  Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, test an area with a mild chemical and a soft pad.  If the test fails to yield the results you are looking for OR takes too long, then try a stronger chemical or pad.  Remember that using more aggressive pads or chemicals will require extra steps to remove the “damage” that those aggressive steps put into the paint.

How do I clean foam pads?

Cleaning Foam pads during use:  use a pad-cleaning brush or dedicated stiff-bristled nylon brush while spinning the pad on the machine, holding the back of the machine on your knee.  Make sure to use the brush ONLY on the side of the pad that is spinning toward the ground.  Make sure that your cleaning brush is kept in a spot where it will not be subject to picking up dirt or grit Some technicians prefer to clean foam pads with compressed air, which can reduce the wear on the pad from the brushes. 

Never use wire brushes of any kind to clean any pad.

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Additional reading:
CNC Machining Service vs. Manual Machining - Eagle Stainless Tube

Foam pad care between uses:  Many technicians like to store their used pads in plastic bags.  You can use the original packaging or use a resealable plastic bag.  You may want to let used pads dry out a bit before putting them into the bag.  Storing pads in a plastic bag will reduce the possibility of the pad picking up dirt or grit.  Never place a pad face down on any surface.

It is possible to wash foam pads with a very mild solution of your favorite all-purpose cleaner.  Do not mix pads used with different chemicals when washing!  If you have a lot of pads of a specific type and purpose, you can even throw them all in the washing machine with a cup of all-purpose cleaner—set the washer on “gentle” cycle, and use only warm or cold water, NEVER HOT.  Air-dry the washed pads on a flat surface.  NEVER put pads in the dryer, as they will warp.

Many technicians find that washing pads is not necessary if they have pads that are dedicated to specific products.  For example, you might have a “compounding” pad that is only used with your favorite compound; and likewise, a “polishing” pad, “finishing” pad, and “waxing” pad, each of which is only used with one chemical.  By dedicating pads as such, it may not be necessary to ever wash the pad.  Simply pull it out of the bag and brush off the dried-out chemical using the technique described above and you’re ready to go!  If there is still a lot of chemical powder coming off of the pad, try misting it with your favorite spray wax or even plane water.  Of course, if you are working on a special project (like a brand new black vehicle), you may want to go ahead and bust out new pads.

How do I clean wool pads?

Cleaning Wool pads during use:  use a wool cleaning “spur” tool.  Washing wool pads is not recommended—just use a spur cleaning tool.  We do not recommend using a screwdriver or similar tool to clean wool pads as this tears up the wool fibers and shortens the life of the pad.

Wool pad care between uses:  After “spurring” the wool pad, place it in a plastic bag.  If it is excessively moist from chemical, you may want allow it to dry for a while by setting it out on a clean, dry surface, face-up.  Then place it in the plastic bag.  Upon retrieving the used wool pad for the next job, spur off the excess dried-out chemical before applying new chemical.

How do I clean micro fiber pads?

Cleaning Micro Fiber pads during use:  A great option to clean micro fiber pads of excess chemical during each polish cycle, clean as much as you can tolerate with compressed air with an air chuck; just lean the back of the machine on your knee or upside down on a flat surface, and run it while slowly guiding the compressed air stream back and forth across the pad.  You can also use a brush to clean micro fiber pads with the same technique, but we recommend using a soft-bristled brush, not the traditional “pad cleaning brush” or stiff nylon brush used for other pads.

Another option to clean chemical build-up on micro fiber pads is a terry towel.  While the machine is running on your knee or upside down on a table or cart, bunch up the towel and hold it on the rotating pad.  You can also wrap up a finger in the terry towel and use that as a “brush” to carefully clean the rotating pad.

If you are experiencing a lot of chemical dust while polishing, you can mist the pad occasionally with your favorite quick-detail spray or even water from a trigger sprayer bottle.  Be careful, however, not to over-saturate the pad.

Micro Fiber pad care between uses:  Between polishing sessions or at the end of the day, most technicians like to remove the pads from the machines and give the pads a thorough cleaning.  For Micro Fiber pads, we do not recommend using a pressure washer or washing machine, as these methods tend to beat up the pads unnecessarily, especially if you are trying to stretch the life of your pads.  Instead, moisten the pad with a mild solution of a proper cleaner, agitate with a gloved hand or soft-bristled brush, and then rinse off under the faucet or with a garden hose.  You can tamp off excess water with a clean terry towel, then let the pad dry on a flat surface overnight. 

For drying several pads at once, one idea is to set up a standard household box fan, on low, facing the pads, and let it run overnight.

What is “Hook and Loop”?

This is the fastening system that ensures the pad “sticks” to the backing plate.  The backing plate will have a surface that is made up of dozens of tiny plastic hooks per square inch.  The pads, in turn, have a backing material that is fuzzy and designed to be “grabbed” by the hooks on the backing plate.  Buff and Shine has spent years perfecting its hook and loop system so that you get the most reliable and durable pad-plate connection possible.  No flying pads allowed!

Why thin pads?

Some technicians like the feel of thinner pads, because of the literal and figurative sense of feeling closer to the paint.  Thus, the work being done is not masked by any cushioning of thicker pads.  This can offer the more advanced technician more control over the work.  Performance and speed of work tend to be better with the lower profile interface.

What pads should I start with if I’m new?

This is a tough question to answer, as there are so many variables involved with surface polishing, such as the surface you are working on and the types of defects that you are typically trying to remove.  Nonetheless, initial pad choice begins with the type of machine that you are using.  Is it a simple rotary or dual-action or long-throw?  Buff and Shine has pad line-ups that are designed specifically for each type of machine. 

Next, determine the size of the backing plate that is attached to your machine, specifically, the diameter.  This will allow you to order the correct pad size to choose.

As far as what pad types you should have in a basic kit, we recommend starting with a “cutting” pad, a “polishing” pad, and a “finishing” pad.  This combination will allow most technicians to accomplish most of the paint correction and perfection situations that might come their way.  Once you have mastered these three pads, you can start to expand your collection based on specific polishing situations.  As you gain polishing experience, don’t be afraid to experiment with different pad materials, as you might find something that works much better for your situation.

Do I need to use a wool pad?

Most detailing technicians working on everyday vehicles do not use wool pads except in rare cases where nothing else works fast.  Wool pads have been around for a long time and were critical for cutting the types of automotive paints that were used before the s.  Some technicians and body shops still rely heavily on wool because of its quick and heavy-duty cutting ability.  The problem with wool is that it WILL leave “technical scratches” (those put in by the technician using the wool pad) behind, requiring extra polishing steps to remove those scratches and swirls.  Because of this, most standard automotive detailing technicians do not use wool.  Besides, the newer buffing tool technology [link to polishers page] and pad technology available these days allows for amazing correction capabilities without the need for multiple steps of polishing.

Is centering the pad important?

YES!  Centering will help the machine run smooth and prevent abnormal wear on the pad and the equipment.  Centering will also help reduce vibration and thus technician fatigue.  Moreover, proper centering of the pad on the backing plate will reduce the possibility of adding technical scratches to the paint.

What does “reticulated” mean?

Reticulated foam is closed cell foam that has been put through a special process that changes it to open cell foam.  In simple terms, “reticulated” foam is open cell foam.

What is the difference between “open cell” and “closed cell” foam?

Closed cell foams have trapped gas bubbles inside the foam that form during the foam's expansion and cure. These gas bubbles are permanently locked into place during the curing of the foam.  Closed cell foams tend to prevent heat transfer because they are more insulating.  They tend to be stronger and less flexible and also resist liquid and chemical absorption.

Open cell foams have “holes” in their walls, so trapped gas bubbles do not form during curing of the foam.  The open foam bubbles then interlock and interconnect, creating spaces within the cells that are filled with atmospheric air, much like a sponge. Due to its porous nature, open cell foam does not resist liquid absorption.  Open cell foams tend to not be as strong as closed cell forms, but are less dense and thus more flexible.

For more in-depth information of foam types, please click here 

Foam pads from different companies are basically the same, right?

No.  Some foam pad manufacturers use foam that is borrowed from other industries, like filter material used in the HVAC industry.  Yet other companies use foams based on their color and not on their performance.  In contrast, Buff and Shine uses foams that are designed specifically for automotive polishing.  Thus, you, as the end user, are ensured of the best results and highest durability.

 The pad color scheme is standard across the industry, right?

No.  There is, unfortunately no set standard for color coding foams.  For example, an orange foam from one company may have a completely different impact than the orange foam pad from Buff and Shine.  That’s why it’s best to stick with one company, like Buff and Shine, that has a consistent color scheme and a guide on every pad wrapper to help you choose the correct foam for the job at hand.

Are custom products available?

Yes.  We can make custom buffing and polishing products with reasonable minimums.  Please contact our sales department to discuss--Click here.

 Why can’t I buy products directly from Buff and Shine?

Buff and Shine is committed and focused on the manufacture, distribution, and improvement of polishing pad technology.  So as to preserve that focus, we decided from the beginning to stay out of the sales aspect of the business, instead leaving sales to our trusted distributor network.  Nonetheless, feel free to contact us If you are unable to get the items that you need from your local distributor.

Can I use different chemicals on the same pad?

In general, it is recommended to dedicated one pad for each type of compound, polish, or swirl remover that you might be using.  When you mix more than one chemical on a single pad, the pad becomes cross-contaminated with two chemicals that are designed for different purposes.  By doing so, you lose control of the results that you will get with that pad.  Professional detailing technicians that have several paint-related chemicals in their “tool box” will usually dedicate one pad for each chemical

What type of polisher or buffer should I use?

Boy, this is a loaded question.  There are so many variables here that the discussion could go on for pages and pages.  Nonetheless, the decision starts by answering three questions: “what surface are you working on?” “what are you trying to accomplish?” and “what do your customers expect?”.  For example, if your surface is automotive paint and most of your customers just want a coat of wax, then you can probably just use a dual-action or random-orbit machine and a foam finishing pad.  On the other hand, if you are working on heavily-oxidized RV gelcoat, you may need to have both a simple rotary (high-speed) machine with a wool pad as well as a long-throw dual action with a finishing pad.

If you are just starting out as a detailing technician, we highly recommend that you go to a training class to learn about polishing automobiles.  You can find information about detail training resources at the International Detailing Association website www.the-ida.com.  Most newbies prefer to start with a dual-action or random-orbit machine, which, with the right set of pads, will allow you to lightly polish and protect most paint jobs.

We find that experienced detailing technicians tend to have several different polishing machines so as to be able to approach most polishing situations in the most efficient and effective manner.  Newer polishing machine technology like “forced rotation”, “gear-driven”, “long-throw”, or “high-action” are allowing new and experienced technicians alike to produce phenomenal results with the appropriate Buff and Shine pads—results that used to only be achievable with multiple steps and risky use of rotary polishers.

Click here for more information on polishing machines.

How do I order the right size pad for my machine?

The measurement that you see associated with a pad description refers to the diameter of the back of the pad—that is, the part that attaches to your backing plate.  Thus, a 5” pad will fit perfectly onto a 5” backing plate.  So, to determine the proper size of pad for your machine, measure the diameter of the backing plate that you are using.

Now, the face of the pad—the part that contacts the surface to be polished--might be larger in diameter than the back of the pad, as some pads bevel out from the face to the pad.  Nonetheless, the diameter of the face is not used in distinguishing pad sizes.

Are your pads just for automobiles?

Of course not!  Our pads are used on a number of other vehicle applications, like RVs, trailers, boats, airplanes, construction equipment, trucks, and many other painted equipment.  We are also a favored supplier to the aerospace and composite industries—basically anywhere a material or surface must be machine-polished or shined.

Do you offer “private labelling”?

Yes!  With an appropriate minimum order, we can put your logo on the bag and the pad itself.  This allows your company to take advantage of Buff and Shine’s high-quality standards by offering your customers reliable, durable, and consistent polishing products.  Please contact us to start a discussion about your private label needs.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Polishing Pads Manufacturer. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.