How to Choose the Right Log Home Sealant - Perma-Chink Systems

Caulks and specialty log home sealants are used to keep air, water, and insects from getting into your home.

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The most important decision you will make is choosing the right sealant for your log or timber home.

Many sealing problems are attributed to the caulking material itself, and most often the proper sealant was not used for the job. It's easy to run to the local big-box home improvement store and pick up some all-purpose caulking, but therein lies the problem. 

There are six types of caulks: butyl, oil-based, ethylene vinyl acetate, urethane, silicone, and acrylic/latex. All are designed to do a specific job, and none are suitable for every application.

Caulking vs. Sealants

The most frequent mistake made by log home owners is choosing a silicone caulk. Silicone-based caulks are excellent for many applications, but they do not work well on wood. Silicones are formulated for use on non-porous surfaces like metal, plastic, or glass. However, wood is porous, and silicones do not adhere to either damp or dry wood. In addition, silicone caulk is difficult to tool and clean up and does not accept a stain or paint.

Presently, the most widely used products are acrylic/latex sealants. Although they are suitable for a wide variety of applications, their quality depends on the specific formulation and manufacturer. And that is where Perma-Chink Systems comes in. The deficiency in these caulks is they are not designed specifically for log and timber homes. 

Premium acrylic/latex sealants such as Perma-Chink, Energy Seal, Check Mate2, and Woodsman are manufactured from high-quality components to perform specific tasks. They are more expensive than a tube of general-purpose caulk, but they are formulated for excellent appearance, high performance, and ease of application. These sealants are made to be long-lasting and durable for the ultimate in wood care for decades.

Apply New Sealant Over Old Caulking? – NO!

An application of new sealant over old, failed caulk is rarely a good idea, even if it looks like the caulk still adheres to the wood. It may take a little more time, but old caulk should be removed for several reasons. If the caulk no longer adheres to the wood, it may be because moisture got under the caulk creating decay. Old caulk must be removed to properly treat and seal the wood substrate.

Newly applied sealant can only work if it is applied to a clean, sound wood surface or a compatible stain. So, if you want to use the old caulking as a backing material, you can apply a new sealant over the surfaces to adhere to a clean wood surface beyond where the old caulking reached. Otherwise, you should remove the old stuff.

Removing Old Caulk Between Logs

The right tools can make the removal process easy. Remember the old church key used to punch a hole into soda or beer cans? It is a handy tool to scrape out old caulk. Hook knives also work well. If the old caulk is silicone-based, you can usually remove it with your fingers. Always inspect failed caulk areas for evidence of moisture. If the wood is damp, these areas should be properly treated before a new sealant is applied.

Sooner or Later? When is the Best Time to Seal Your Log Home?

If you are doing other work, a decision to make early in the process is when to apply your sealants. This decision might have some bearing on which sealant to use. One consideration is that some sealants take a stain much better than others.

Smooth-surfaced sealants like Check Mate 2 do not stain as well as textured sealants like Energy Seal. If you are planning to apply sealants to your log walls first and then stain afterward, Energy Seal is your best choice.

Usually, the best time to seal logs is after the LIFELINE stain has been applied. The log surfaces are fresh and clean and whichever Perma-Chink Systems sealant you select will adhere to wood surfaces stained with LIFELINE. If you are going to use a topcoat like LIFELINE Advance for exteriors or LIFELINE Acrylic for interiors, we suggest that the topcoat be applied after Energy Seal. This gives the most even appearance over the entire wall. However, if you want to hide the sealant and want a seamless appearance, apply Energy Seal before you stain.

Now let us look at various caulking applications around a log home and select the right product for each job.

Sealing Door and Window Frames

When sealing around window and door frames you have several options.

For either new or older log homes, we recommend Energy Seal since it has outstanding elongation and adhesion. This means that as your home settles and shifts, Energy Seal stretches to maintain its bond to the wood. It is available in 12 different colors and since it is textured, it will take the color of the stain.

On chink-style homes many people want the sealant to match their chinking. If that is the case, Perma-Chink can be used to seal around window and door frames, too.

Checks and Small Gaps in Logs, Log Corners and Log Ends

Upward-facing cracks and checks in logs should be filled with Check Mate 2.

Otherwise, they collect water that can lead to decay and insect damage. You need not worry about checks on the bottom half of round logs unless they penetrate through the log wall. Choose a color that is closest to the color of the stained logs. If checks are more than ¼ inch wide, stuff a length of backer rod into the check to about 1/4 to 3/8 inch below the surface before filling it with Check Mate 2. The Check-Kit has both backer rod and convenient applicator tubes. For more instructions on how to seal checks in logs and log siding click here

Sealant Application

One of the most common mistakes made when sealing logs is to fill deep gaps or checks with the sealant material. Quality sealants are made to stretch and elongate with the movement of the joinery. When a sealant is applied too thickly, it loses its ability to stretch and may separate from the wood.

A good rule of thumb is that the thickness of the sealant should be approximately 1/2 the width of the gap you are trying to fill. However, sealant joints never need to be more than 3/8 inches thick. So, how do you fill a large gap?

If you are trying to fill a void behind a window frame, for example, Log Gap Cap foam is the product to use. You can also put backer rod into gaps. See step-by-step instructions here.

The space left after the installation of the backing material is called the "caulking well." This well should be approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch in depth, regardless of the width. This space is what you fill with sealant. Some sealant applications have geometries that do not allow for these “textbook” conditions. But, whenever possible, adhere to these specifications for the highest performance seal.

For filling in large voids or gaps, urethane foams are an excellent choice. However, many foam systems have a high expansion ratio which forces foam out of the void you are filling. It is difficult to remove. If you are unsure about your backing material, check with Perma-Chink Systems before using it.

Tips On Applying Perma-Chink and Energy Seal

Some people think that Perma-Chink and Energy Seal is just like any other caulking product on the market, so they apply and finish it with the same methods. Typically, silicone caulking can be smoothed just by running a damp finger along the bead of caulking. Using that method with Perma-Chink or Energy Seal will net you disastrous results. To get a smooth, clean finish, spray the sealant liberally with water then tool it with a metal spatula or similar. It's counter-intuitive to apply water to smooth it, but it's the best way. Unlike smooth caulking, the texture in Perma-Chink and Energy Seal needs more water to maintain a smooth finish. And it'll be much, much easier.

Are you interested in learning more about Seal End? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Conclusion

Remember, hot air that gets into your home in the summer and cold air in the winter increases your energy bills. Water penetration can cause decay and insect nesting. One of the best ways to keep insects out of your log walls is to eliminate the openings where they get in. Properly selected and applied sealants are among the best materials for protecting your home. Use the right sealant for the job for years of protection and comfort.

This is a very simple question to answer, and we get asked it quite a lot. A garage door threshold is designed to keep your garage clean and dry throughout the year. They achieve this by stopping water from going inside your garage when they’re properly installed. Regardless of whether there’s a lot of drafts which carry in windswept rain or leaves, our seals will have you protected.

What you will find with our range of threshold seals is that they are made from quality materials. In all cases they are extremely durable and long-lasting, which is why we have a 5-year warranty. We are extremely confident in our range of products. Keep reading through the guide to find out how to install the seals and to find out how to choose the best garage door threshold.

If you have a gap between the bottom of your garage door and floor through the course of the year this can cause a lot of problems. This is caused by an uneven floor from wear and tear over the years, or a poorly installed garage door that does not seal to the floor when closed. Even if your garage door looks like it seals to the floor, strong winds can still blow rain and dust underneath, especially when it is flood season, another large storm or particularly heavy torrential rain. You may find that you go back home, and your entire garage is full of water; this can happen even with small gaps.

Each of the threshold seals you see on our website were created with the goal of stopping this. Even if you have a tiny gap underneath your garage door, we will have the size for you. Our floor seal products range from ¼” all the way up to a huge 2” height. They are perfect for any type of gap and garage door.

Our seals all function the same way when it comes to protecting your garage. Each one prevents leaves, dust, and windswept rain from blowing underneath your garage door. This doubles up to also reduce drafts blowing cold air inside your garage.

We are also committed to being environmentally friendly with all the products we make. We believe that the carbon footprint we leave should be as minimal as possible. This is why our products are made from materials that are 100% recyclable.

The decision is ultimately up to you; however, each material has its own advantages depending on the installation. We offer both PVC and Aluminum weather seals which have plenty of differences between them. With many options available from many different materials, including those made from rubber, it can be a little overwhelming when trying to choose the correct one for your needs. Hopefully this guide will help you choose the right material for your requirements.

GaraDry’s most popular garage door thresholds are made from PVC. What makes these seal strips ideal for domestic use is the ease of installation and versatility. They can be installed by any competent DIYer with minimal tools and time requirement. It can easily be installed in under an hour following the included instructions. Our seals come in a kit so everything you need to install them is included in the box.

The main reason you would get this product over rubber seals is that they have a much longer lifespan. Many rubber seals will become brittle or decay in prolonged contact with water and will discolor in direct sunlight. Whereas with our PVC products that is not something you have to be worried about, as the material is long-lasting and durable and will always maintain its original shape. It is also UV-stable meaning excessive sunlight won’t discolor it or cause it to bend and break over time.

They are flexible and can provide a watertight seal even on an uneven floor against flood water up to the height of the seal. These weather seals come in one continuous strip, which you can cut down if you order it a couple sizes too large. These PVC seals come in a variety of sizes ranging from ½”, ¾”, 1”, 1¼”, 1½” and 2” in height. They each also have standardized widths with variable lengths depending on your needs.

In a direct comparison when it comes to the weatherproofing features of the seal there isn’t that much difference between the PVC and aluminum. However, there’s one giant difference that really makes the aluminum threshold seals shine in a specific scenario. That scenario is when installing a seal in industrial premises. Whether a factory, warehouse or anything which has heavy vehicles passing over the threshold would require the use of an aluminum seal.

They can withstand weights of up to 35,000lbs, you can look at a video which shows them being tested by an industrial press by clicking here. Unlike the PVC range, they come in less variable heights ranging from ¼”, ½” or 1” but unlike the thermoplastic seals they come in interlocking sections of aluminum. The sections can be joined together to create longer lengths and as the bottom seals are supplied in a continuous length you will have a waterproof seal along the complete length up to the height of the seal.

That isn’t to say that these seals can’t be installed in a garage, they absolutely can. If you do a lot of work or have some heavy vehicles, then the aluminum seal might be a better option for you. Otherwise, the PVC seal can more than do the job, they can withstand up to 6,200lbs which is roughly 18% of what the aluminum can take but can handle most common vehicle sizes and weights.

All you need to do to pick the correct height of the seal is to measure the largest gap between the garage door and floor. This is best done by measuring the gap in several places as it may vary across the width of the garage door, and you may have a garage that has a ½” gap on one side and a 1-inch gap on the other. Which would indicate that a 1” would be what you need at minimum.

When you have found the largest gap, you can then pick out the ideal seal for you. Because the seals range from ¼” all the way to 2” of height you have a lot of choice when it comes to sealing the gap. In addition to the height of any gap underneath your garage door, you would also need to consider the volume of water that you require protection from as the height of the threshold will protect against that level of standing water. So if you suffer from a lot of heavy torrential rain one of the larger seals is probably going to be more suitable for your needs.

If you do decide to purchase a larger threshold seal, then you can easily fit a taller threshold but just keep in mind that you should set it back slightly away from the door. This will allow the garage door to close without any modifications.

The other thing that is important to measure before purchasing is the length of threshold seal you will need. The way to do this is quite simple, all you will need to do is measure the width of the garage door from left to right. This will help inform you on which of the lengths you will need to select.

Because we have so many different lengths you can choose from, you can be sure that you will find the exact length you need. You will need the seal to be slightly longer than the width of the door (around 1 ½” each side) to notch it around the door frame or garage door tracks. You can cut it down with a hacksaw, sharp knife, or scissors depending on the material used.

This section is a brief summary, but we have resources available which can explain this in-depth depending on which type of seal you buy. If you are hoping to install a PVC floor seal, then you can view this YouTube guide which has all the steps laid out clearly or you can look at the PDF fitting instructions by clicking here. If you are hoping to install an aluminum seal, then you can find the instructions here.

What you need to be aware of primarily is that the seal should fit behind the garage door, sitting against the back of the door. This will ensure a tight seal when the door is closed. Alternatively with a lot of door models this may not be feasible, and you will need to place the threshold seal further behind the tracks. Each of our kits comes with foam blocks which you can use to stop water around the side if you do need to install it further behind the tracks.

If you try to fit a threshold in front of the door you will find that the water will run down the face of the door and leak inside anyway. This will just make your seal purchase completely wasted. If you need advice on how to properly install the seal feel free to give us a call.

When you decide to install any of our range of threshold seals you will stop water from leaking into your garage. Regardless of whether it’s melting snow, standing water, or water carried in by heavy winds. On top of this, if you have any metal machinery, tools, or gym equipment inside your garage then by preventing moisture it will stop the buildup of condensation and therefore prevent rust. This is also handy if you have cardboard, as moisture can cause it to go soggy and moldy and cause it to be ruined quickly.

One of the other benefits is that anything that the wind brings with it will be stopped at the door by the threshold. Whether that’s leaves, dust, or sand that gets blown into the garage. Additionally, any small rodents such as mice or rats alongside any insects will also be prevented from entering underneath the garage door. This allows you to not have to deal with any nuisances and lets you rest at the weekend without worrying about the state of your garage.

The final thing that the seal can help you with is its ability to keep drafts out of the garage. This lets you keep a warm garage throughout the year and not have to worry about turning the heating up. As an indirect result of installing the seal you can reduce your energy costs because you’ve sealed the gap between the bottom of the garage door and floor.

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