Equipment inspection tips: 5 things to look for when buying a used ...

Equipment inspection tips: 5 things to look for when buying a used excavator

If you’re looking for a used hydraulic excavator, check out the selection available at Ritchie Bros. unreserved auctions and for sale online at IronPlanet.com. But before you head out to inspect the machine you want, check for these five things to help determine the value of an item you’re interested in buying and avoid unexpected repairs or replacement costs.

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1. Play or movement

A damaged slew ring can be one of the most costly items to repair or replace in a used hydraulic excavator, so make sure to rotate the hydraulic excavator housing to a quarter turn and check for any play or movement in the slew ring. The slew ring bearing has a play limit, so it’s good to measure it and check against specs.

Look for play or movement at the connection points of the boom, stick and bucket as well. Ideally all pins and bushings should be tight. Any loose connections, particularly at the connection points between the excavator stick and bucket, could mean a loss in excavation accuracy and a need for repairs.

2. Cracks, bends and dents

Cracks are never a good sign, especially when they exist in key connection point welds, such as between the boom and stick or stick and bucket. The existence of cracks or significant bends could mean the excavator’s overall structural integrity has been negatively affected and the boom or stick will need to be replaced. The existence of large dents on the hydraulic excavator’s undercarriage or to the top of the excavator’s stick could mean the machine was used without proper care by its operator.

3. Leaks

Open the hydraulic pump compartment and look for signs of leaks. Check all hoses, lines and cylinders. Also check for leaks in the slew ring or swing bearing and swivel joint, which could forewarn of excessive play or movement. Any leaks will need to be repaired to ensure the safe and continued operation of the hydraulic excavator.

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4. Inaccurate/broken hours meter

If the hours meter is not operating or the reading is in question, check the control pedals for wear. Excessive wear could indicate the hydraulic excavator has more operating hours logged than noted.

5. Scalloping

Check between the excavator bucket teeth for signs of scalloping, half-mooned shapes. Scalloping does not necessarily indicate that a bucket needs to be replaced, but it does indicate a reduced cutting force.

The tips above serve as a good starting point to help you research a potential used excavator. Above all, check the maintenance records if they’re available, and have a qualified mechanic or expert inspect the machine if you have any doubts.

Find the hydraulic excavator you need: search all excavators being sold at Ritchie Bros. unreserved auctions, as well as machines available every day on IronPlanet.

Are you interested in learning more about Excavator Muffler(in,vi,ar)? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Older and higher hour can me many things to many people. But generaly you need to inspect the hoses, bucket and arm pins along with track condition. Of corse general engine things also.

One thing to look for in a excavator is leaks from the center hydraulic pivot. This can be a major job and very costly.

I bought a micro ex about 4yrs ago with hrs. It's a kubota kh41, lb machine built in Japan in . Yes it's small but I have put on 400hrs with no issues. Havent even put a set of rubber tracks on it.

Some people may think that a 3,500lb machine is to small to dig a septic system or dig out a foundation of a alreaty built house and there kind of right..but I have done all that and I live on clay and bed rock. All it takes is some extra time and diesel.

I'm looking at buying a used excavator. It'll likely be an older, high hour excavator since I don't have a large budget. What should I look for? Are there any particular repairs I should stay away from? Any other telltale signs of an excavator that hasn't been taking care of?

If you have any interest in driving to Southeastern Connecticut, I can show you mine. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Or if you have a buddy that has one, I think looking over one in person will be far more valuable to you than trying to describe online.

I bought a Hitachi 120, with about hours about a year ago. We are someday building a house on property up the street, with about 1/4 mile of driveway to put in.

We replaced the track chains on it, which was about 5k in parts and I did the work myself. I knew they were worn when I got it, and they could've been pushed more, but I wanted to drive it up the road to the new place, and the peace of mind was worth it. It drives and turns far smoother now.

We looked at this machine, and also a Deere 690D. The Deere was a larger machine, which was intimidating to me in the event of a failure. On my 120, I could pull the motor if I really needed to using my tractor. No chance on the Deere. Also a hydraulic pump for the Deere was something in the range of 10K, and they were known to fail.

We've been able to do a tremendous amount with the 120, and working in the woods where we are, I wouldn't want anything much bigger. So independent of condition, picking out the appropriate size machine is something you'll need to contemplate.

If you are looking older and higher hours, you're going to run in to worn pins, leaky pistons, old hoses, faded paint, some dents etc. None of those is likely a deal breaker. What you're looking for in a machine will probably be different than someone looking to make a living with it.

I'd check track chains for stretch and ensure the correct number of links, look for really bad leaks, look at the coolant, oil, and hydraulic fluid for color and contamination. Try to start it cold if possible, pick up the machine to check play in the swing bearing. Check the swing gearbox to make sure it has gear oil in it, and hasn't been packed with grease. Run it to make sure it operates smoothly and has power.