10 Questions You Should to Know about surfactant ingredients

Updated: 18.02.25

At Formula Botanica, we often get asked about surfactants – those fascinating functional ingredients that make cleansing magic. So I thought, why not dedicate a post to them?

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In this article, we’ll be taking an in-depth look at surfactants. While there are different kinds, we’ll focus exclusively on the ones used in cleansing and foaming products, as they’re the ones you’re most likely to use in your formulations, whether that’s in your facial cleansers, shower gels, body washes, or shampoos.

And while this is a more advanced topic, there’s no need to feel worried! In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about surfactants, from what they are, why they’re so important, and how they work in water-based formulations. I’ll even share five of my favourite natural surfactants that you can experiment with and which will take your formulation skills to the next level. Ready to get started? Let’s dive in!

What are surfactants?

First, let’s discuss what surfactants are and how they work in formulations.

Surfactants, or surface active agents, are a versatile group of ingredients found across multiple industries, from food and construction to pharmaceuticals and personal care. In skincare and haircare, they act as functional ingredients and are mostly responsible for the cleansing and, in some cases, foaming properties of your favourite shower products.

But here’s a surprising fact: cleansing and foaming aren’t always connected. While some surfactants create the rich, bubbly lather that people typically associate with cleanliness, others are specifically designed to reduce or completely stop the foam. And while it can enhance the sensory appeal of a product, foam isn’t a true measure of how well it cleans.

Surfactants also include emulsifiers, solubilisers, dispersers, wetting agents and detergents. If you’re curious to learn about the difference between solubilisers and emulsifiers, check out this post:

Solubiliser vs. emulsifier: Which one do you need?

The chemical structure of surfactants

Now that you know what surfactants are, let’s discuss their chemical structure. Don’t worry: it’s very straightforward!

Surfactants have a water-loving (hydrophilic) head and a water-hating (hydrophobic) tail. As you can see from the chart below, the kind of charge contained within the water-loving head will determine the kind of surfactant you’re working with:

For more on the chemical structure of surfactants, check our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.

How surfactants work

Surfactants are present in many cleansing products, and their effectiveness lies in their unique molecular structure and ability to interact with both oil and water. Let’s break down how these ingredients work to remove dirt and grime:

1. Introducing surfactants to the solution

When a surfactant is added to water, its molecules arrange themselves in a specific way. Each surfactant molecule has two key parts:

• A hydrophilic head that is water-loving and interacts easily with water
• A hydrophobic tail that is oil-loving and avoids water

2. Attachment to dirt and oils

Once introduced, the hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules seek out and attach themselves to dirt and oils. This happens because dirt is often oil-soluble, making the hydrophobic (lipophilic) tail the perfect match to bond with it.

3. Lifting and encapsulating dirt

The surfactant molecules then surround the dirt or oil particles, forming structures called micelles. The hydrophobic tails stay attached to the dirt, while the hydrophilic heads remain oriented toward the water. This action detaches the dirt or oil from the surface (be it skin, hair, or textiles) and suspends it in the solution.

4. Washing away dirt

The final step involves rinsing. The hydrophilic heads keep the encapsulated dirt suspended in water, allowing it to be washed away effortlessly. This process ensures that dirt is removed from the surface and carried out of the solution, leaving behind a clean and refreshed surface.

If you’d like to learn even more about the different types of surfactants and how they work, check out our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.

How to formulate with natural surfactants

Definition of “green” surfactants

At this point, you’re probably curious about how to formulate natural surfactants.

The term “natural” or “green” surfactant doesn’t have a universally accepted definition, so it can mean different things to different people. You can learn more about the different shades of natural in our first-ever podcast episode:

Episode 1: What does natural skincare mean?

Ultimately, the choice of surfactants is entirely up to you. When selecting your surfactants, consider the following factors:

• Biodegradability: Does the surfactant break down easily in the environment?
• Source: Is it derived from natural, renewable sources like plants? Is it animal-based?
• Irritation potential: Is it gentle on the skin and eyes?
• Environmental impact: What’s the carbon footprint?
• Ethical sourcing: Is it sustainably and ethically sourced?

Where to start

If you haven’t worked with surfactants before, I recommend you start with non-ionic surfactants. Here’s why:

• Compatibility: Non-ionic surfactants work harmoniously with other types of surfactants, making them versatile and easy to incorporate into formulations.
• Ease of use: They are beginner-friendly and straightforward to formulate with, making them ideal if you’re just starting to work with surfactants.
• Gentleness: These surfactants are mild on the skin and hair, which is especially important when creating products for sensitive skin or everyday use.
• Foaming capacity: While their foaming capacity varies, many non-ionic surfactants provide a pleasant sensory experience.

If you’re interested in learning more about non-ionic surfactants and how to use them in your skincare or haircare formulations, we cover them in our foundation Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation and our Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation. 

Examples of non-ionic surfactants

While non-ionic surfactants are generally interchangeable in theory, as a formulator, it’s important to be prepared for slight variations in how each one behaves within a formulation.

To help guide your formulation process, I’ve compared five of the most popular plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that you can experiment with:

• Coco Glucoside
• Decyl Glucoside
• Lauryl Glucoside
• Sucrose Cocoate
• Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Natural surfactants comparison table

Here’s a detailed comparison table to help you choose the best non-ionic surfactant for your formulations:

Surfactant Trade name Certification* Properties pH Active matter Coco Glucoside Sucranov™ 818 UP -BergaSoft CG 50 / MB EcoSense™ 919 Ecocert Very mild, good foam stabilising quality,  good hydrating properties, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Decyl Glucoside BergaSoft DG 50 / MB -ORAMIX™ NS10 / Plantacare® UP -EcoSense™ Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Biodegradable, excellent and stable foam, works very well with Cocamidopropyl betaine ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Lauryl Glucoside BergaSoft LG 50 / MB -EcoSense™ / Plantacare® UP Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Very mild, moderate foaming, excellent viscosity builder, good in baby cleansing products, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Sucrose Cocoate TEGOSOFT® LSE 65 K Soft N/A Mild, increases foam density & viscosity, adds creaminess, has good re-fatting qualities, moisturising and anti-static, biodegradable ∼6.5-7.5 ∼65% Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside BergaSoft CCG 70 / MB -ORAMIX™ CG110 Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Creates fine and stable foam, mild, good solubiliser for essential oils, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50% (There are various versions)

*Certification – Whether the natural surfactant is available as a certified ingredient will depend on your supplier, but these ingredients are generally accepted by the listed certification bodies. You can find out more about green certifications here.

What is Active Surfactant Matter (ASM)?

The ASM is a percentage that represents the concentration of the surfactant. When you buy a surfactant, it won’t be delivered to you as a “pure” ingredient as such, but it will be diluted in water. If the ASM is 60%, this means the ingredient you’ve just purchased contains 60% surfactant and 40% water.

Are you interested in learning more about surfactant ingredients? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Knowing the ASM of your natural surfactant is important when deciding how much of your ingredient should be used in a cosmetic formulation. For example, you would use less natural surfactant in a facial cleanser than in a body cleanser, so your formulation is not so ‘harsh’ on the skin.

Which surfactant to use?

I conducted a simple foam test to see how well these natural surfactants perform when it comes to creating foam. While you now know that a product doesn’t need to foam to effectively clean your skin or hair, most people still expect their cleansers and shampoos to foam when they use them. That’s why many formulators aim to create a rich, dense lather to enhance the user experience.

For this test, I mixed five solutions, each containing 10% surfactant and 90% distilled water, and transferred them into foamer bottles (essential to create the foaming effect!). I then compared the foam produced by each solution, which you can see in the image below:

As you can see, all five natural surfactants produced foam, though some were more effective than others. Here are my observations:

• Decyl Glucoside stood out as the best performer, creating a rich, dense foam that really impressed me.
• Coco and Caprylyl/Capryl glucosides performed well, producing a decent amount of foam.
• Sucrose Cocoate and Lauryl Glucoside didn’t fare as well in the foaming test. The foam they produced collapsed pretty quickly, making them less ideal for this type of product/bottle. Sucrose Cocoate and Lauryl Glucoside are also both pastes, which means they need to be heated to properly dissolve. When mixed with water, Sucrose Cocoate produced a milky solution, which might not be suitable for clear formulations.
• Lauryl Glucoside created a clear solution but thickened slightly, suggesting it might not work well in the foamer bottle I’ve used. However, it could be an excellent option for formulations that benefit from a bit of extra thickness.

Which surfactant will you try first? Let me know in the comments below!

Join our free training course today

I hope you enjoyed this post and found it helpful!

If you’re ready to dive deeper into the fascinating world of skincare formulation, our free training course is the perfect starting point. You’ll learn how to make your own natural skincare products – even if you’ve ever done it before – and become a confident formulator instead of a simple recipe follower. Sign up now to start your free formulation journey!

And if you’ve already completed our free mini course, why not take the next step with our award-winning Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation?

FAQ

• What is the best natural surfactant to start with?

Non-ionic surfactants are a fantastic way to start your journey into foaming products. They’re gentle and mild and can create a nice, rich foam. Plus, they’re highly versatile and work well with all other surfactants. 

• Can I mix different surfactants together?

Absolutely! In fact, mixing surfactants can help improve performance. Try blending surfactants from different charge groups, or even within the same group to see how they perform together.

• Do all natural surfactants foam the same?

No, not all natural surfactants foam the same way. Some may produce more foam, while others may create a lighter lather (or not at all!). It depends on the type of surfactant and the formulation you’re using.

• How do I know which surfactant is right for my product?

The right surfactant depends on your formulation goals. Consider the cleansing power, foaming ability, and overall gentleness you need. Testing and observation will guide you in finding the best fit for your product.

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Nowadays, more people are looking for natural shampoos, softer for their hair, eco-friendly and kind on the environment. All those labels filled with information, it gets confusing! “Sulphate free”, “Silicone free”, “Paraben free” … what information is true and what should you base your choice on? Is it enough to just avoid certain ingredients?

In order to help you to make the right choice, here is a list of 10 ingredients to avoid in your shampoo. We also give you tips and tricks on finding the best natural products!

10 Ingredients Categories To Avoid In A Shampoo*

1. Formaldehyde.
   On label: DMDM hydantoin, Diazolidinylurea, Imidazolidinylurea, Quaternium-15: all release formaldehyde which is now a worldwide known carcinogenic contaminant;

1. Ethoxylated surfactants.
   On label: Sodium Laureth Sulfate and all the ingredients that end in -eth (eg. Ceteareth, Laureth-4, Laureth-23): they are all contaminated with carcinogenic agents; these ingredients are caused by a reaction with ethylene oxide, a synthetic chemical known to be carcinogenic and contaminated by a manufacturing impurity listed carcinogenic to humans like 1,4-Dioxane. This chemical is listed to be part of the group 2B by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) because of its cancer-causing properties in humans;

1. Ethoxylated emulsifiers.
   On label: PEG, PPG- ..., Polysorbate- (20, 30, 80...): they are all contaminated by carcinogenic substances generated from the reaction caused by ethylene oxide, like the one mentioned above;

1. Ingredients containing amines.
   On label: Cocamidopropyl betaine, Triethanolamine and Cocamide DEA/MEA (and all the ingredients that end in ‘DEA’ or ‘MEA’): these ingredients are contaminated by nitrosamines, a chemical known to have cancer-causing risks to humans named in the Proposition 65 list;

1. Artificial dyes.
   On label: FD&C, D&C, name of a colour followed by a number or "dye". Artificial dyes may come from petroleum or may contain heavy metals. Some artificial dyes may cause irritation or sensitivity according to EWG, or may be contaminated with recognized carcinogens according to CSPI (Center for Science in the Public Interest).

1. Endocrine disruptors.
   On label: Propylparapen, Isopropylparapen, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, BHA, BHT, Phthalate, Triclosan: These substances can interfere with the correct functioning of the hormonal system;

1. Isothiazolinones.
   On label: Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT): chemicals known to cause skin allergies and eczema. There have been multiple cases of individuals that developed heightened sensitivity and increase incidents of chemical burns due to these ingredients;

1. Allergens.
   On label: Phenoxyethanol, Cinnamal, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol : Are all allergenic substances listed by the European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (CSSC) and the EWG. They pose risks of toxicity (aquatic fauna), irritation and skin allergies. The phenoxyethanol is classified in particular as "moderate danger" for health, in particular for its toxicity to the immune system and for allergies, according to EWG. It is an ingredient of concern;

1. Silicones and polymers.
   On label: Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Acrylates crosspolymer: are synthetics compounds, non-renewable and non-biodegradable sources;

1. Fragrance and perfume.
   On label: Fragrance/Parfum. This term, when used alone and not detailed, can group together a multitude of "secret" ingredients in which endocrine disruptors and/or carcinogens and/or synthetics and/or allergens are regularly found. It is impossible to know the composition unless it is listed on the label according to today's recommended practices of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). When the ingredients contained in fragrances are listed on the label, it is easier to know what they are, which is the case with ATTITUDE products, whose natural ingredients (plant and flower extracts) are detailed in the list of ingredients. According to the EWG, all of the fragrances we use in our products are free of harmful ingredients.

How To Choose Natural Shampoos?

The government considers that using cleaning and personal care products with carcinogenic agents is not dangerous for our health and tolerate their presence. However, organizations like the EWG or the American foundation Breast Cancer Prevention Partners, who promote the “Campaign for safe cosmetics”, want to expose the danger of these chemicals on us.

Questions are being raised, however it is the consumer’s choice to use natural products or not. Should they constantly search ingredients to avoid in the shampoo and products they use? Who wants to be repetitively exposed throughout their lives to low doses of chemicals contained in our everyday care products? We all react differently to the chemicals in care products. It is up to us to choose our priorities; natural ingredients, without synthetic material, without allergens, without products derived from animals, etc.?

ATTITUDE believes is it essential to find care products with natural ingredients. Here is a list of tips and tricks that will help you easily find the best natural shampoos:

- Choose trust-worthy brands that are certified (by EWG VERIFIED ™, for example); Identify care products and shampoos made with natural ingredients, vegetal or mineral-based; Look up any ingredients that are unknown to you on the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database of the EWG. They list the possible health hazards associated with the chemicals found in the personal care and beauty products;

- Be aware of those so-called Paraben-free, Sulphate-free, Phthalate-free shampoos. Paraben is a preservative often replaced with another dangerous chemical, like Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT) for instance.

Harmful Substances In Shampoo: What Is The Impact?

The Impact On Health

What is the impact that the use of our shampoos can have on us over time? Science at this times does not have enough data to assess the lifetime impacts of being exposed to these different contaminants. The fact is that our skin is penetrable which means; It can easily absorb a variety of chemicals. Hard to believe, but more than 200 industrial chemicals and pollutants were found in the blood of the umbilical cord of 10 newborns! This study was conducted by the EWG in , by researchers from two major laboratories.

Researchers are just beginning to understand the cumulative effects of prolonged exposure to chemical contaminants in small quantities in our everyday products. It is difficult to determine the impact of these contaminants, their quantity and the interaction between different chemical agents.In response, environmental health studies that analyze our daily exposure to chemical products are increasing. Organizations such as the Organic Consumer Association in the United States, among other things they highlight the presence of contaminants in our cosmetics and are fighting for more transparency in legislation. A positive step in the right direction of change!

The Impact On The Environment

It is important to question what products we use do to our planet. Industries use non-renouvelable resources i.e. repetitive effects on the environment. The chemicals that flow freely through our rivers and lakes affect the sea life. Industrial impurities such as 1.4-dioxane are also very problematic. It is known, for example, that 1.4-dioxane is a substance that cannot be filtered by water purification stations. It accumulates and finds itself in the drinking water.

At ATTITUDE, we believe it is important to be cautious and to rely on a rigorous product development process. That's why all our shampoos are developed from natural ingredients, and all the ingredients to avoid in a shampoo listed in this article are not used in our formulas. Our vision is to question everything and we invite you to do the same! *According to EWG Among our collections, you will find liquid shampoos with eco-refills. We also offer leaves bar plastic-free shampoo bars, to help you reduce your daily plastic consumption.

To find out more about what's in your shampoo, read testimonials on the subject:

What’s In Une Parisienne à Montreal’s Shampoo? What’s in Emily’s Shampoo? (Our Nest in the City) What’s in the Shampoo of the HappyFitness Girls? What's in the Shampoo of Blond Story

Practical Memo: How To Spot Healthy And Safe Ingredients In A Shampoo?

To guide you in finding the safest shampoo for you, here is a list of the safe and healthy ingredients*:

• Sodium Coco-sulfate: a surfactant derived from coconut oil with excellent cleaning power and known to give shampoo its consistency.
• Coco-glucoside: a vegetal foaming agent (surfactant) derived from coconut oil, combined with glucoses (sugars). This ingredient cleanses and smoothes the hair fibers.
• Decyl-glucoside: a surfactant made with glucoses and is derived from cornstarch and coconut oil.
• Lauryl glucoside: a surfactant of plant origin and adapted to formulas for sensitive skin.
• Sodium cocoyl isethionate: a surfactant derived from coconut oil.
• Sodium cocoamphoacetate: a gentle surfactant derived from coconut oil with great foaming power.
• Vegetal glycerin: obtained from rapeseed or coconut oils. It is a moisturizing ingredient for skin and hair.
• Sodium citrate: Sodium salt of citric acid, vegetable origin used as a sequestering, emulsifying or stabilizing agent in a formula.
• Potassium sorbate: the Potassium Salt of Sorbic Acid is a natural fatty acid extracted from the berries of the mountain ash, it is used as an antimicrobial preservative.
• Stearyl citrate: vegetable origin and consisting of Stearyl alcohol and Citric acid is an emollient that softens and moisturizes the skin or hair.
• Glyceryl oleate: vegetable origin, it is an emollient that softens, moisturizes the skin or hair.
• Butyrospermum parkii butter: extracted from the kernels of Shea fruit, it is an emollient that softens and moisturizes the skin or the hair.
• Clays: mineral substances that come from volcanic ashes. In shampoos, we prefer to use red, yellow ochre, yellow illite, pink and blue clays, because these are the ones that naturally increase volume, moisturize, nourish, and detoxify the hair.

Good to know: All of the above ingredients are of plant origin and fully biodegradable.

* The ingredients listed above are examples of worry-free ingredients, but it is important to note that in pure form, they can be irritating. The secret is always in the right dosage and formulation!

Do you want to read other articles wich talk about Cocamidopropyl Betaine? Have a look here :

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